Eight houses that define fine champagne — what each one actually tastes like, the bottle to begin with and what it costs.
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01
Krug
Reims · Founded 1843 · Grande Cuvée from ~€190
The most singular house in Champagne. Every wine, including the non-vintage Grande Cuvée, is blended from more than a hundred wines across a decade of reserves and fermented in small oak casks. The result is a champagne with the weight and texture of a fine white Burgundy. Start with Grande Cuvée; Clos du Mesnil and Clos d'Ambonnay are the collector bottles.
Moët's prestige cuvée is made only in declared vintages and released in successive Plénitudes as it matures. The style is precise and mineral rather than rich, built to be drunk with food. P2, released after roughly sixteen years, is the bottle that convinces sceptics that champagne ages.
Created in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II, Cristal is still made from the same parcels farmed biodynamically by Roederer. It is the most polished champagne in the category: chalky, tightly wound and very long. Roederer's Collection non-vintage is the best-value introduction to the house.
One wine, one village, one grape, and only in exceptional years — fewer than forty vintages in a century. Salon is blanc de blancs at its most uncompromising: austere on release and extraordinary after twenty years. The sister house Delamotte offers the same terroir at a fraction of the price.
The Pinot Noir house, fermented in old oak and aged on lees far beyond the legal minimum. Special Cuvée is the best everyday champagne in this list, and R.D. — recently disgorged after a decade or more — is one of the great food champagnes. James Bond's bottle, with substance behind the association.
Épernay · Founded 1849 · Winston Churchill from ~€230
The most quietly confident house in Champagne, still family owned and famously hand-riddled. Brut Réserve is impeccably consistent; the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, made only in strong vintages from Pinot-dominant grand cru fruit, is powerful without heaviness.
Reims · Founded 1734 · Comtes de Champagne from ~€180
Chardonnay-led and floral, the most immediately charming of the grandes marques. Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, from grand cru Côte des Blancs fruit, is one of the benchmark blanc de blancs and ages beautifully for fifteen to twenty years.
The oldest established champagne house, and the most Chardonnay-focused of the large maisons. Blanc de Blancs is the house signature — light, citrus-driven and built for an aperitif — while Dom Ruinart shows what the same grape does with a decade in Ruinart's Roman chalk cellars.
By consensus among sommeliers, Krug and Salon sit at the top for complexity and purity respectively, with Dom Pérignon and Cristal close behind. For everyday drinking, Bollinger Special Cuvée and Pol Roger Brut Réserve outperform far more expensive bottles.
What does a good champagne cost?
A very good non-vintage from a great house runs roughly €45 to €80. Prestige cuvées such as Krug Grande Cuvée, Dom Pérignon and Cristal are typically €180 to €300, and rare bottles such as Salon or Krug Clos du Mesnil reach €700 and beyond.
What is the difference between vintage and non-vintage champagne?
Non-vintage blends several years so the house style stays consistent; vintage is made only from a single declared year, in stronger harvests, and is aged longer. Vintage champagne is more expressive and ages further, but the finest non-vintage blends are remarkable wines in their own right.
Should champagne be aged?
Prestige cuvées reward it. Most non-vintage champagne is released ready to drink, but a further two to three years in a cool, dark place adds texture. Vintage champagne from a strong year often peaks fifteen to twenty-five years after harvest.
What is grower champagne?
Champagne made by the family that farms the grapes rather than a house buying fruit. Producers such as Jacques Selosse, Egly-Ouriet and Ulysse Collin offer a more site-specific expression, usually in small quantities and at prices approaching the prestige cuvées.
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